Oliver Logan Founder on Slow Fashion and Eco-Wash Red Flags – Sourcing Journal | Fashion

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“When it comes to the fashion industry, sustainability means that every stakeholder puts our planet before their profits,” said Oliver Timsit, founder of Los Angeles-based women’s denim brand Oliver Logan.

Known for soft fabrics made from recycled cotton blends and classic denim fits available in sizes 24-34, Timsit said Oliver Logan practices “slow fashion,” meaning garments take a little longer to produce, but they are responsibly manufactured in ethical facilities and are designed to last for seasons. .

“Slow fashion is the opposite of fast fashion, which means we don’t believe in changing your entire wardrobe four times a year to match every season,” he said. “We embrace the perennial approach, a move inspired by the natural phenomenon of some plants, trees and other types of foliage that remain healthy and vibrant throughout the year. Our denim is relevant and versatile no matter the season.”

The brand sources fabrics from Deyao Textile Co. Ltd in China, which recycles 80 percent of its water discharge from its dyeing and finishing plant and is certified by the Global Recycle Standard (GRS) and Organic Content Standard (OCS). Easipower Co., its cutting, sewing, washing and finishing facility, offers employees paid maternity leave, continuing education programs and child care. Your supplier of garment accessories and trims, Sun Tat, offers labels woven from recycled yarns and labels printed on recycled polyester ribbon.

To communicate the environmental savings of its partners to consumers, Oliver Logan has partnered with Green Story, a platform that measures the environmental impact of brands and translates the data into simplified and identifiable statistics. Green Story found that a single pair of Oliver Logan jeans saves .52 CO2 emissions, or about 1.2 miles of driving, and one of his shirts saves 969 liters of water, or about 510 days of drinking water.

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While each brand has its own sustainability journey, Timsit said he believes sustainability in the denim industry is no longer an option.

“We have to start doing things differently,” he said. “The technology to manufacture better, recycle natural resources and reduce waste is widely available, and I encourage all brands to implement these technologies in their design and manufacturing process.”

Here, Timsit shares the greenwashing red flag every shopper needs to know about and the role education plays in justifying higher prices for sustainable jeans.

Rivet: Describe the most sustainable jean in the current collection.

Oliver Timsit: Our most sustainable jean right now is the Mulberry Straight in Vintage Light Indigo. The fabric we use is made from 33% post-consumer recycled cotton, the metals used to make the accessories are recycled with an eco-friendly finish, and our wash was processed using a combination of ozone and laser technology. In total, one pair of these jeans saved 141 gallons of water, which is equivalent to 281 days of drinking water for a single person.

Rivet: Who is your denim icon and why?

OT: I love a good storyteller, and there’s no one better than Ralph Lauren. His denim transcends generations and is available to everyone.

Rivet: Name one of the top red flags that tells you a brand is greenwashing.

AT: Ambiguity. Consumers should beware of claims that are not backed up with detailed statistics about a company’s efforts. If a company is truly sustainable, it must be willing and able to demonstrate it in a way that the customer can understand.

Rivet: What is your earliest memory of denim?

OT: I was 12 years old and it was ‘bring your kid to work’ day. I went to downtown Los Angeles with my dad who was in the denim business. I remember walking past a cutting table while denim was being laid. I spent the rest of the day following the denim through the factory from the cutting table to the seam line. A few days later, I saw the finished product again, a pair of five-pocket men’s jeans, and I couldn’t believe my eyes. Since then, I’ve had an affinity for denim and the design process in general.

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Rivet: What do you think is the next frontier in making denim greener?

OT: Brands play an important role in making denim more environmentally friendly, as we stand between the supply chain and the consumer. It’s our job to slow down, create better products that last longer, use materials that are already in circulation, and reduce our dependence on natural resources. The technology that allows us to do that is widely available, we just need to encourage more brands to use it. If brands can take advantage of new manufacturing technologies and educate their customers on how to shop more responsibly, we will all be on the path to greener denim.

Rivet: Describe your most used jeans.

OT: I bought a pair of APC jeans at least 10 years ago. It was my first time buying premium raw denim and I spent every moment breaking it down. There was even a time when he slept with her. Over time, they molded to my body, and to this day, they still fit me better than anything else. They have aged beautifully, and the color was used as inspiration for our Ralph wash.

Rivet: In your experience, what is the most effective way to educate consumers about sustainable denim?

OT: The idea of ​​sustainable denim can be very intimidating and even confusing to a consumer, so we use accessible platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and email to get our message across. The best way to get the point across is to be direct, relatable, and most importantly, use quantifiable data in terminology everyone can understand. For example, at Oliver Logan, when we talk about our resource savings, we talk about days of drinking water conserved rather than gallons of water saved. We do the same with energy and CO2 emissions. In fact, sustainable denim can be more expensive, which is a touchy subject for consumers. This is where the educational piece comes in: informing customers that what makes a pair of jeans sustainable is that they are well made and will last a long time, eliminating the need to buy another pair in six months. When you put it this way, money becomes less of an issue because now they’re paying for longevity. Not only for your garment but also for the planet.

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Rivet: What certifications do you rely on to identify suppliers that fit the green ethos of the brand?

OT: We look for WRAP, GRS, BSCI, Bluesign, Higg Index, ISO14001 and Oeko-Tex. Beyond that, we like to spend time with our vendors to make sure everyone from employees to owners share the same spirit as Oliver Logan.

Rivet: What is currently inspiring you?

OT: The transition to post-pandemic life inspires a lot of what we do. We’ve spent so much of the last few years in hoodies that our focus has been on designing denim that’s just as comfortable. Returning to ‘normal life’ has influenced our drive to further innovate our sustainable practices so that we can leave the smallest possible footprint and lead by example for further change in our industry. Our jeans are a nod to the future of denim while remaining timeless and classic.