Paris is the hub of the global luxury industry this week and Tuesday marks the first major day of ready-to-wear shows. The powers Saint Laurent and Dior are among some 107 brands presenting spring-summer 2023 collections at Paris Fashion Week. Here are some highlights so far:
DIOR’S NOSTALGIC PALACE
Guests like Natalie Portman, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Rosamund Pike and Emma Raducanu gazed curiously at a ruined palace recreated within an annex to the Tuileries Gardens. Vines slithered through Renaissance doorways, over faded wooden cornices and weathered columns to evoke the mystery of times past.
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The brand explained: Loosely based on Dior’s headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, the ensemble was also inspired by Catherine de Medicis, the Renaissance queen who moved to the Tuileries in the 16th century. She had the famous gardens and a palace built on the site which has since been razed. Catherine also brought heels, corsets and Italian lace from Burano to the French court, collected by Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in this thoughtful show of 84 looks, with lots of black and white.
Twisted dancers performed alongside ribbed corsets, Renaissance high waists and lace bows that encircled the dusty palatial walkway.
Despite contemporary features like bright fabrics and utilitarian buttons, by Chiuri aesthetics rarely strays from the history books. And to sublime effect, it was Dior’s strongest show in seasons.
Heavy (15) 80s renaissance ruffles and ruching ran down a skirt that was topped by a black “chain mail” vest that might have been worn at the YMCA in the (19) 80s. An LBD was gloriously anachronistic in a skirt that billowed like the top of a full skirt, but was held back with sporty levers.
STOMPING SNEAKERS BY BOTTER
Tailored met aquatic on Tuesday at Botter’s co-ed show of crisp lapels, boxy jackets and poetic cuts. They adorned brightly colored outfits.
Stomping Statement Sneakers — again, in vivid colors — provided contrasts with fashion items for suits that sometimes sport marbled lines to evoke the tentacles of sea creatures.
The double distressed denim continued the underwater vibe on a male model who lumbered down the runway with a blue knitted mask over his entire face and clear beads on his hands. He made it look as if he had been attacked by a jellyfish. Or the Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh show may have been another dig at the coronavirus pandemic.
YSL IS ALL ABOUT SEXY HOODS
Dramatic shoulders, column silhouettes and hoods from the ’80s, evoked from the heyday of the last Yves Saint-Laurent at the evening show of the Parisian stalwart on Tuesday, all set for the twinkle of the Eiffel Tower.
The house founder meticulously turned the “capuche” into one of his most iconic styles, originally inspired by the tubular cap worn by dancer Martha Graham for her 1930 choreography Lamentation. designer Anthony Vaccarello, who took this cowl style and ran, or strutted, in it.
A ’90s refinement infused the eye-catching ’80s hoods that came in muted or caramel hues, hues that are also reminiscent of that garish era. This hood formed the base silhouette of many skimpy ensembles, contrasted with flashy gold earrings or large wooden bracelets, and exuded sex appeal. heavy open woollen coats and stately trenches, caressing the ground, creating a rectangular window frame through which trousers were seen in some ingenious fashion theater. Elsewhere, short turtlenecks on figure-hugging tops evoked an aesthetic that screamed sensual pleasure.
COWGIRL BRINGS STARS AND STRIPES TO PARIS
A flash of American funk graced Paris for fashion week on Monday, a day reserved for newcomers. Cowgirl, who rose to fame five years ago in New York wearing a US flag dress. trainmoved this season across the pond and it was a highlight.
Designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee combined their bold styles with looks that moved in a more commercial direction for spring-summer. Distressed denim, the punk and corset exuberance of Vivienne Westwood’s heyday and lashings of Americana references, like loose glitter. biker jacket — defined the display of 31 looks, often salable.
The US flag made its return to the runway, here as a sheer shawl ending in a fabulous balloon parachute skirt.
LANCOME’S LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL
The first big party of the season celebrated one of the most iconic perfumery and cosmetics brands in Paris: Lancome. A stone staircase dotted with colored lights led VIP guests, including model Noemie Lenoir, to the Petit Palais palace on the banks of the Seine River on Monday night.
This season Lancome, owned by The real, celebrated the tenth anniversary of its best-selling French perfume “La Vie Est Belle”, or “life is beautiful”. Victoria’s Secret model Sara Sampaio also threw the party at the famous art museum in a frilly black mini.