PHIPPS Gold Label is the blueprint for turning vintage fashion into modern | Fashion

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This story originally appeared in iD’s The Earthrise Issue, no. 368, Summer 2022. Request your copy here.

Since its foundation in 2018, PHIPPS – the Paris-based brand run by Spencer Phipps, an affable Californian with a passion for climbing and perhaps the best-groomed beard in fashion – has won over industry folks and fashion fans alike with its inimitable sensibility. vintage. That’s not to say the patched-up blue jeans, ranger shirts, and sports memorabilia-scented pieces it offers Look secondhand, but rather that there’s something about the American outdoorsy ethos they’re imbued with that makes them feel like gems you’d have to carefully comb countless Beacon’s Closet rails to find.

In recent seasons, however, that vintage feel has morphed into actual vintage, at least for a sizeable portion of the PHIPPS offering. Through PHIPPS Gold LabelSpencer has debunked assumptions that a fashion brand should only commit to selling ‘new’ clothing, presenting a carefully curated and bespoke edition of vintage pieces alongside its core collections. Conceived specifically to fit into the aesthetic universe of PHIPPS and embroidered with the brand’s logo, the garments that make up Gold Label are given a new life.

model in sweatpants and jacket in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Awar is wearing NIKE socks. UNDERGROUND shoes.

Of course, the current fashion of the resale market is undeniable, with brands increasingly interested in exploring potential avenues in the second-hand sphere, motivated by the urgent environmental case for fashion companies to develop circular production solutions, along with the lucrative success of reselling platforms like Of pop Y community locker room. However, the intentions behind PHIPPS’s foray into the vintage world are much more humble and frank. “When I started PHIPPS, one of the pillars of the brand was sustainability and trying to do things as responsibly as possible,” explains Spencer Phipps, sitting in his sun-kissed study on the district 10. “However, at a certain point, when I was thinking about what is the most environmentally responsible way to make a pair of jeans and a flannel shirt, I realized that I had never bought a new pair of jeans. I have only used vintage. So I was wondering if there was a way to include that in the branding?

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A spirit of cross-pollination is what drove the creation of PHIPPS Gold Label, although that is not how it was known from the start – it simply existed as a capsule of old parts quietly nested within the core offering. “We did it as a test. I put some pieces on the show and didn’t really say anything,” he recalls. “And then I put a little area in the showroom, just to see if anyone would get it, and people freaked out. All these buyers would come in and say, ‘How do I get this?’ I thought, ‘Well…’”. It’s that focus that has allowed PHIPPS Gold Label, which encompasses custom ’90s Man United jerseys and Utah team wrestling tank tops, humble plaid T-shirts and Hulk Hogan-signed boxer shorts, to sit so comfortably inside of the brand universe. . It’s why “in our shows, we can take a suit from the main line and put a vintage T-shirt under it, and it doesn’t feel gimmicky,” explains Spencer.

model in polo shirt and sweatpants in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Saskia wears a bracelet from the stylist’s studio. Earrings (worn at all times) by the model. UNDERGROUND shoes.

That meticulously curated edition of vintage items has since become what Spencer describes as an “experimental upcycling project,” featuring everything from cotton T-shirts to rarities like Yao Ming’s basketball jersey from the 2005 All Star game with the PHIPPS treatment: the latest piece, for example, features an embroidered logo and has been embellished with glittering gold stars.

“It’s a bit like modern couture,” notes Spencer. A notable point in its favor is the more accessible price points, even for “pieces that are insanely collectible and super rare.” Granted, choosing to work exclusively with vintage clothing presents certain challenges, not the least of which is trying to scale a business where the materials you work with aren’t in reliable supply. sure, there is much of second-hand clothes, but trying to get various items in runs of a variety of sizes, such as looking for a collaborative capsule with Fashion Browns – It is not a simple task.

model in coat in iD 369 the Earthrise issue
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Byul wears the necklace from the stylist’s studio.

Still, while some retailers come to Spencer with a specific rundown in mind, for LN-DCFor example, for Dalston’s 10th birthday, the Dalston-based concept store ordered a series of birthday and anniversary t-shirts; others have leaned on what makes vintage shopping so different: the wow factor. It has even started offering a “mystery box,” a sort of lucky pick, where shoppers don’t quite know what they’re getting until their order arrives. “I always say, ‘Trust me, it’s going to be great. There will be some very collectible rare stuff, but you just have to trust us!'” Spencer says. It’s something more and more retailers are starting to do.

A large part of the reason is that, with Gold Label, Spencer has managed to choose pieces that nod to the past without feeling weighed down by it. “It’s about being contemporary,” he says. “It’s vintage but not necessarily nostalgic. I like to use these types of pieces to tell a modern story and have a point of view that feels very current, that looks at the way people dress now and how those old pieces can be turned into something that feels very current. . .”

sitting model in t-shirt and jeans in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Saunders wears an ARIES ARISE SS18 T-shirt (worn underneath). Jewelry stylist studio (used everywhere). UNDERGROUND shoes.

It’s certainly an approach that feels aesthetically relevant, but it’s also pertinent in the context of the global fashion industry’s abysmal propensity for waste production. “Vintage is ultimately the most responsible way to shop and participate in the fashion industry,” says Spencer. “You are not using any new raw material. You’re even stocking loungewear in a warehouse and you get a unique item.”

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Still, while PHIPPS Gold Label was founded with the intention of demonstrating a responsible approach to clothing production, that hasn’t diminished fashion’s credibility in the bottom line. Niche, distinct, and sometimes downright nerdy, they are garments created (or curated in this case) by a fashionista for like-minded minds. “I’m here trying to find better solutions that are also viable business options, instead of saying, ‘We have to change everything and start from scratch!’” he says. “It’s about asking, ‘What can I do?’ So let’s explore vintage: I like it, other people like it, and see if other brands respond in kind as it grows.” Without giving names, it should be noted that they have. Still, as a testament to his character’s benevolence, it’s not something that makes Spencer bitter. “Ultimately, I’m happy to be part of the conversation, and part of that is also about not adopting the mindset of ‘Well, I’m a sustainable brand and you can’t be because that’s my point of view.’ !’ Let’s all be!”

model with briefs and top in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Puck wears DICKIES socks. Adidas shoes.

model in white t-shirt, briefs, blue jeans and sneakers in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

HANRO briefs. Boxers MARC BY MARC JACOBS. UNDERGROUND hat. Stylist studio for necklaces and belts. Adidas shoes.

model in a red sports top in iD 369 the Earthrise issue
model in soccer jersey and shorts in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Stylist bracelets. NIKE socks.

model in white blouse, leather jacket and choker in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Senior wears necklace in stylist studio.

Model in black t-shirt and black pants in iD 369 the Earthrise issue

Sunglasses Stylist Studio

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credits


Lola and Pani Photography
Fashion and screen printing
Hairdresser Naoki Komiya at Julian Watson using Kiehl’s Creme with Silk Groom
Do Crystabel Riley’s makeup at Julian Watson Agency using BYBI
Photography assistance Milan Rodriguez
Fashion Assistant Lily Leetah Hill
Hair assistant Makoto Hayashi
Makeup assistant Ayesha Anandji
The production canvas represents
Postproduction INK
Casting director Samuel Ellis Scheinman for DMCASTING
Casting assistant Alexandra Antonova
Models Puck Schrover at Platform Agency, Awar Odhiang at Models1, Saunders at Premier, Byul at IMG, Saskia Jesson and Mayor Dutie at Elite
All PHIPPS GOLD LABEL clothing