Sunday roast / Debbie Pappyn
Debbie Pappyn is a Belgium-born, Portugal-based travel writer and journalist with articles in magazines like Monocle (since our first issue, no less). She has also published various travel titles, such as 150 hotels you must visit before you die Y remote places to stay. Her new book with her husband, photographer David de Vleeschauwer, is called remote experiences and is published by Taschen. Here, he tells us about his favorite Portuguese restaurant, visiting local wineries, and the joys of a wood-fired oven.
Your ideal way to start a Sunday? A smooth start or a jolt?
The weather in Portugal can be glorious even in winter. I like to get up early to take advantage of that moment of the day, working a little in the garden or in the olive grove of my house in Alentejo, before going out for a walk with Rosie, my rescued dog.
What’s for breakfast?
Fresh juice made with lemons and oranges from my garden, Japanese genmaicha or green tea from a new plantation in the north of Portugal called Chá Camélia, owned by winemaker Dirk Niepoort and his wife, Nina Gruntkowski. Then sourdough bread from Beja, fresh goat cheese from the nearby town of Santana and a black pepper fried egg from Kampot that I bought in Cambodia.
Lunch in or out?
Outside. I have my list of the best taverns in the region and Chores, often with nice terraces to be able to take Rosie. One of my favorites is Cozinha d’Aboim in Portel, a restored century-old stable with a splendid terrace where they serve the best. cod (dried cod). In the evenings, I prefer my own wood oven, which heats the entire kitchen when the outside temperature drops.
Walking the dog or downward facing dog?
Rosie has a lot of space here. Sometimes we go for a walk, but most of the time she is as free as the swallows that perch around the castle tower in the village.
Your Sunday soundtrack
Fleetwood Mac, Roxy Music and JJ Cale.
A must-have Sunday culture?
In the extreme south of the Portuguese region of Alentejo, small cellars (bodegas) open their doors every year around November and December for people to try their new Talha came. After going to the small market in Vila de Frades to buy local cheese and sausages, you could visit a couple of small bodegas, where sometimes the older locals come to sing and play music and bring their own appetizers (sandwiches) to share.
What would you like to find under the tree this Christmas?
An Australian colleague, Sam Vincent, recently published a book called My father and other animals: how I took over the family farm. I would love to read it and give it to friends who have also changed their lifestyle from urban to rural. Also, Portugal: The Monocle Manual.
The best and worst gifts you have received?
My dad once gave me an LP signed by Kate Bush, my favorite singer of all time. I still don’t know how she did it, but it was wonderful. Worst? Probably one of those decorative things that are obviously bought at a deep discount and are not only ugly but useless.